21 January 2017
So with the bulk of January off busy doing whatever passed months do in their spare time, let’s take stock. It’s been an interesting month – quiet; with brilliant blue skies as empty as a perfect sapphire. Burgundy has been rocking our world like some kind of Allied bunkerbuster; a device aimed squarely at my wallet via my taste buds. Or that’s how it felt going to the tastings over the last few weeks.
But anyway – it’s your turn now. For your pleasure –
2015 Pillot Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Noyers Bret’ – possibly my favourite Puligny of all time, which is saying something. I still get constantly confused that a wine this elegant, witty and as charming isn’t actually simply repackaged as Oscar Wilde. Anyway, anthropomorphism of my favourites aside, this cracking wine is elegant, refined and with a beautiful mineral note to it as opposed to his fatter Chassagnes.
Daniel Rion was one winemaker whose new vintages got ticks across the board from myself, Erik, Mark & Dickie when we went up to sample – a rare occurrence! His Cotes du Nuit’s Villages was rich and generous with oodles of fresh fruit in the mouth and a tannic body which managed to be like silk under high tension – soft, but with immense strength. One for the cellar for a year or so but guaranteed impress. And, nicely, not as top end as some of his NSG’s or Vosne-Romanées.
And lastly – Perdrix. Sigh… Perdrix. Beautiful black fruit, very ripe tannins and a great texture. Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Perdrix’ is a full-throated, blooded style of NSG with the darker textures that one expects from a truly great wine of those fields. Perdrix have made a bit of reputation with it, especially labelling it a “quasi-Monopole” – a posh way of drawing attention that they only 99% of the vineyard and would very much like to get their hands on the other 1%!
And on the Winebar:
2014 Holden Manz, Visionaire - £6/glass, £15.99, 3 for £39.00
A blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Aged in French oak barrels for 22 months and oozes cocoa and blackcurrant, quince and spice, herb, eucalyptus and – lastly violets. Often regarded instore as the mighty Chocolate Block’s younger brother – and a delicious glass of wine!
2015 Organic Grillo - £4/glass, £9.99, 3 for £27.00
Lifted peach and grapefruit with notes of banana and fresh ginger. Fresh stone fruits on the palate with clear, apply acidity. Funnily enough this Mediterranean wine sings with fresh fish – which allows you to at least enjoy the last of the January attempt to eat lightly!
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