Domaine des Sénons is one of the most fascinating new estates in northern Burgundy because it is not an old family domaine—it is a modern vineyard revival project built from scratch on land where commercial viticulture had effectively disappeared more than a century ago.
The estate was founded by Frédéric Duponchel, his daughter Marie Duponchel and his son-in-law Florian Ruscon in 2018. Based upon much reasearch done of local archives and historical vineyard records, Frédéric began acquiring and replanting these old vineyard sites.
The day-to-day viticultural and winemaking responsibilities are largely carried out by Marie, who has previously worked with both Domaine Marquis d'Angerville (Volnay) and Domaine Richoux (Irancy) whilst Florian looks after the vineyards and operations,
The area around Sens, in the northern Yonne department, once had an important wine reputation with Medieval wines from Sens being served to French royalty and with Monasteries owning substantial vineyard holdings. By the 19th century, more than 400 hectares of vines supplied Paris via the Yonne and Seine rivers.
The region's vineyards then declined due to the dreaded Phylloxera, increasing competition from southern French wines transported by rail and then of course the disruption of World War I, so that by the early 20th century, most of the vineyards had disappeared.
Domaine Senon's winemaking philosphy is based upon organic farming with biodynamic practices, massale selections rather than standard clone-heavy planting, utilising a gravity-fed winery and focussing on minimal intervention winemaking. Their goal is to express a terroir that sits geographically between Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire Valley.
The project has benefited from advice and support from some highly respected figures, including Bernard Raveneau of Chablis (the Raveneau family being among Burgundy's most revered growers) and from Bordeaux, consultant Thomas Duclos (Duclot).
The estate has attracted remarkable praise for such a young project. Wine Advocate critic William Kelley wrote in 2023:
"It's rare that I encounter a new project, started from scratch. It's even rarer that such a project should appear to be doing pretty much everything right."
"Surprisingly rich nose – much richer than a Chablis – though there's a little undertow of running water to keep it juicy and palatable. Much fruiter than a Côte d'Or white. Little bit of chewy texture on the end. (JR) 16/20"
