2019 Berthoumieu Madiran Constance

Viella AOC Madiran, is in the Gers region, and enjoys a hot, oceanic microclimate which promotes the ripening of the estate’s fruit, especially Tannat, which requires a lot of time on the vine to become amenable to wine production. Winemaker Didier has been unofficially organic since 1993 which means that while he remains uncertified, his wines follow all the standards of certified wineries and yet do not attract the higher price point of their certified neighbours. This means the wines are top quality but not overly expensive. He uses an interesting method to improve his vineyard soil quality, called the PRP method (‘Procédé Roland Pignon’ after the chap who invented it) - this involves adding marine ‘calcaire’ (limestone) to the soil which increases its bacterial composition, making it more ‘alive’!

While the Tannat grapes are always hand-harvested, the Cabernet Sauvignon for this wine are always harvested mechanically, for the simple reason that by the time this late-ripening varieties are ready to pick, it is too late to use the team of hand-pickers, as they have all left for the end of the harvesting season.

This hearty red is a blend of 60% Tannat, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Pinenc – and is bottled with neither fining nor filtration, which helps retain the full character and texture of the wine. This one may be worth decanting as it is likely to throw a little sediment. Don’t worry if you didn’t get given a fancy decanter for Christmas, a glass measuring jug will do! Anything that allows you to see the sediment gather before you pour it in your final glass.

A dark and deep red, it has earthy aromas aplenty – blackcurrant, prune, liquorice, and fresh coffee grounds. Layers of black fruit flavours with the unmistakeable Madiran mint and herbal garrigue character, indicative of the region, all held together with grippy tannins.

The perfect pair for wintery dishes such as roast pork, pan-fried duck breast, Truffled Beef Wellington, rack of lamb, and diverse cheeseboards. Basically, all the meats and all the cheeses!