2023 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah

96 Tim Atkin MW

Gottfried Mocke makes this complex, layered Syrah with grapes from Porseleinberg and
a 10% contribution from the Goldmine property, both in the Swartland. Fermented with
60% whole bunches and aged in foudres and 600-litre barrels, it's an intensely perfumed
style, with engaging violet, rose petal and fynbos top notes, savoury tannins and layers of
blackberry, liquorice and oolong tea. 2028-38

19/20 Matthew Jukes.  

There is a massive 90% Porseleinberg portion in this 2023, with Goldmine making up a paltry 10%!  I asked Marc why, and he answered with typical nonchalance.  “It just worked well on the tasting bench!”  While this source of fruit is most famous for making the Porseleinberg-labelled wine, the fruit used is typically firmer and more challenging.  The fruit used for this wine is a little riper and more pliable, resulting in an irresistibly floral, more succulent initial burst of flavour.  However, this open stance soon evaporates, and after the generous welcome, the predictable ‘crunch’ arrives, and the fruit slims down, gathers tension and gravitas.  The finish alone marks this as one of the most fascinating and complex releases in years.  If you are a lifelong fan, you ought to apply.  If you are new to Boek-world, then perhaps pick another vintage!  I say this because this is a super-intricate wine that requires prior knowledge, a degree of nerdiness, and, at the very least, membership in the Seven Chairs Club. 19/20